41
Nojiri (Eisen)
The "Seven Bends of Nojiri" were designed to protect the town against
enemies. Soon after the Joshoji Temple, the Iwade Kannon at left in the
picture, dubbed the Kiyomizu Temple of Kiso, comes into view. Further
away, the Inagawa Bridge is visible.
42
Mitono
From Nojiri, travellers had to pass through a narrow perilous road along
the Kiso River before entering Midono. This post town was as prosperous
as Tsumago, which came next. At the Tokakuji Temple, there is an image
of Buddha sculpted by Enkyu, a famous priest sculptor who travelled around
the country with the aim of creating 120,000 Buddhist statues. The red
and white ume (apricot) flowers indicate the arrival of spring.
43
Tsumagome
Today Tsumago is designated as an "important traditional structure group
preservation area" together with Narai-shuku. From olden times, this stage
was an important intersection with another highway branching to the Ina
Valley. The scene is at the Magome Pass.
44
Magome (Eisen)
There is the Magome Pass (801 m above sea level) between Tsumago and Magome,
which are 8 km apart from each other. From the pass, Mt. Ena can be seen
in the distance due south. The post town of Magome is below the pass.
This is where Shimazaki Toson, a famous Meiji novelist, was born and is
also the stage of his masterwork "Before Dawn."
45
Ochiai
At the Jikkoku Pass, the province of Shinano ends and the province of
Mino begins. Standing by the road here is a Basho monument with his haiku
poem bidding farewell to Kiso. On the outskirts of the post town is the
Inoji Temple famous for "Raccoon Dog's Ointment." In the picture, a daimyos
procession is moving down the pass road and is about to cross the Ochiai
River before entering Ochiai.
46-1
Nakatsugawa
There are two pictures of Nakatsugawa. "Nakatsugawa on Rainy Day" with
the seal of the publisher "Kinjudo" is said to have been the earlier of
the two prints. This version, existing in a smaller number, has greater
scarcity value. The picture is considered one of the best among Hiroshige's
many rainy landscapes.
46-2
Nakatsugawa
The regular "Rokusai" market was held here on the 3rd and 8th of each
month, gathering a large number of people including those from Kiso. Nakatsugawa
was the largest post town on the Kisokaido Highway, but the picture does
not show that. Seen from the bridge over the Yotsume River, the town nestles
smugly at the foot of a mountain. In the foreground, travellers and townspeople
are walking leisurely along the highway.
47
Oi
The post town of Oi, which was at a strategic point of traffic, is said
to have formerly been Oi-eki on the ancient Tosando Highway. This picture
shows the hilly Jusan Pass between Oi and Okute.
48
Okute
Past this post town, travellers walked on a flat road along the mountain
with exposed rocks. From the Biwa Pass between Okute and Hosokute, they
could see Mt. Ibuki, Mt. Hakusan and the Bay of Ise far away in the distance.
49
Hosokute
When the Kisokaido Highway was opened, the post town of Hosokute was not
present. It was later added, however, because the mountain road of 16
km between Okute and Mitake was considered too long for a single leg.
In this picture of a well-balanced composition, we are looking down at
the entrance to the stage of Hosokute from a hilltop.
50
Mitake
Mitake was a post town that had developed in front of the famous Gankoji
Temple. To get to this station, travellers trudged along a gently-sloping
mountain path. Today we can witness the vestiges of the old-time highway
in the mileposts and stone-pavement slope along the road. The inn advertising
itself as "Kichin-yado" (cheap lodging house) on the shoji screen served
also as the Teahouse of Juppongi.
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