 31
Shiojiri (Eisen)
Lake Suwa is frozen over. It is famous for the phenomenon called "Omiwatari"
(God's Crossing) in which the ice breaks in midwinter forming a ridge
across the lake. The Shiojiri Pass (1,052 m above sea level) commands
a panoramic view of snow-capped Mt. Fuji in the centre and the Yatsugatake
mountain range to the left.
 32
Seba
Tradition has it that Seba, or "Washing Horse", got its name when the
retainers of Kiso Yoshinaka (1154-1184) washed his horse in the clear
water of the Ohta river. The round moon beyond the willows is casting
a pale light on the surface of the river, on which a sampan is moving
soundlessly. This is considered one of the best works in the Kiso Highway
Series, and it is also one of Hiroshige's masterpieces.
 33
Motoyama
Motoyama is famous as the birthplace of soba (buckwheat vermicelli noodles).
Part of the post town still remains along the street today. Two woodcutters
are taking a rest and having a smoke under a huge pine tree stretching
across the picture.
 34
Niikawa
Cross the Sakurazawa Bridge about 3 km from Motoyama, and you will find
a monument proclaiming "The Kiso Route: South from Here." Niegawa is the
northernmost of the 11 post towns on the Kisokaido Highway through the
valley of Kiso. The signboards in front of the house carry the names of
the woodcutter, printer and publisher of this ukiyoe series. The number
"34" on the rump of the horse is the stage number of Niegawa.
 35
Narai ( Eisen)
This post town was located 935 m above sea level. There were hundreds
of inns for travellers, many of whom decided to put up for a night here
before the crossing of the Torii Pass. Even today, there is a stretch
(about 1 km) of street preserving the appearance of the post town. "Oroku
Comb" written on the signboard was the speciality of this area having
originated at Yabuhara.
 36
Yabuhara (Eisen)
This is a sight at the Torii Pass (about 1,197 m above sea level) before
the post town of Yabuhara. From here the Hida Road branched off, crossed
the Nomugi Pass and led to Hida Takayama. At the root of the pine in the
picture is the Suzuri (Inkstone) Spring, with which Kiso Yoshinaka is
said to have written a petition. The mountain in the distance is Mt. Ontake.
 37
Miyanokoshi
Miyanokoshi is rich in historic remains in connection with Kiso Yoshinaka,
who spent his childhood and youth here. At the Hataage Hachimangu Shrine,
Kiso Yoshinaka rose in arms and marched against the Taira (1180). In this
excellent piece of work, the close-range view is silhouetted against the
distant view shaded off superbly so as to express the night fog.
 38
Fukushima
Located in the middle of the Kiso Valley, Fukushima is the administrative
and economic centre of this area. It was a key post town on the Kisokaido
Highway having one of the four most important checking stations in the
country (together with Usui, Hakone and Nii). At the middle point of the
Kisokaido Highway, Fukushima bustled with people including those who were
climbing Mt. Ontake for religious worship.
 39
Agematsu
In the neighbourhood of Agematsu are five of the "Eight Scenic Spots of
Kiso." The picture depicts the Ono Falls, which are one of them. In the
Kiso River which flows by this post town is "Nezameno-toko" with a great
number of gigantic monstrously shaped rocks creating a breathtaking sight.
 40
Suhara
The tradesman's house has a street-side cover and a tank containing water
drawn from a mountain stream. The place is said to be inside the compound
of the famous Joshoji Temple just outside the town limits. Mendicant Zen
priests wearing large braided hats are taking shelter from a sudden shower.
Against the shaded background, the pelting rain seems to be creating an
amusing moment for the travellers.
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